A Kochi Local’s Quest to Preserve Jewish Culinary Heritage

In the bustling streets of Kochi’s Mattancherry area, where history and culture meld seamlessly, Thoufeek Zakriya is on a mission to safeguard the culinary traditions of the city’s dwindling Jewish community. Nestled close to the iconic Paradesi synagogue, Thoufeek’s childhood was infused with the aromas and flavors of Jewish cuisine, particularly a unique egg-based dessert known as Muttamala.

Muttamala, a delicate dish made from strands of egg yolk submerged in sugar syrup, may not be widely recognized outside its cultural context, but it symbolizes a rich heritage that Thoufeek is passionate about preserving. Unlike typical descriptions of dishes as Portuguese or Iberian, Thoufeek views Muttamala as an integral part of his upbringing, a culinary gem from his neighborhood that deserves to be celebrated.

This remarkable dessert can trace its roots back to the culinary practices that flourished during the Portuguese colonial era, where similar recipes like fios de ovos emerged. These egg-thread confections were developed in convent kitchens, where egg whites were often set aside for other purposes, leading to the creation of these sweet delicacies. Though Muttamala may not have the same fame as the renowned pastel de nata, its rich history and the skills required to prepare it are just as significant.

Thoufeek’s journey reflects a deeper narrative of cultural preservation. As the number of Jewish residents in Kochi diminishes, the culinary practices tied to their traditions are at risk of disappearing. His efforts not only spotlight the significance of Muttamala but also encourage others to recognize and appreciate the multicultural tapestry that defines Kochi.

By sharing his knowledge and experiences, Thoufeek aims to bridge the gap between generations and foster a sense of pride among the people of Kochi regarding their shared heritage. This culinary endeavor is more than just about food; it is about keeping alive the stories, memories, and identities intertwined with these recipes, ensuring they are passed on to future generations.

Source: scroll.in